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How often should I get my Stabilizer serviced?

We recommend you send in your damper once a season, just as you would with your forks or shock. With frequent use, you may need to send it in more often. Like your suspension, there is no set time frame on when you will need to replace your seals. Some of our dampers have been out there 3-4 years with no fluid or seal change. It stands to reason that if it's not broken, don't fix it. Once you get used to your damper, you will know when it's time to send it in for service.


Can I use one stabilizer for more than one bike?

Yes, you can, in most situations. It depends on what damper kit you currently have. Our V.1 damper kits can be swapped from virtually any dirt bike or street bike to another. With the correct hardware, it can be done. The damper unit may be too stiff or even too soft, but that can be easily fixed by one of our GPR Tech service men. With our V.2 damper kits, it is a case-by-case situation depending on application. V.3 units can be swapped between different dirt bikes only.


My Stabilizer is either leaking or not working very well, any more. What do I do?

If your damper kit is brand new, right out of the package, it will have some excess oil on it. It is normal for it to weep a small amount of oil during the first initial ride. Just wipe it off really well with some contact cleaner or soap and water and a nice rag. If it is persistently leaking, give us a call or email. Either way, we'll get you taken care of very quickly.


Are GPR stabilizers USA made?

We are proud to say that GPR manufactures, assembles, and tests every unit in the San Diego facility. The only thing outsourced is our seals, bolts, and oil. Every damper mount and post mount bracket is R&D'd, then manufactured in house for a true 100% fit and quality assurance. Instead of a cast mold post mount, or a one "fit all" drill and tap bracket, all mounts and brackets are CNC machined in house for top quality.


After installing my stabilizer, I noticed a "creaking" noise coming from my front end. Is that normal, will it go away?

No, that is not normal! In most cases, it is caused by poor/improper installation and/or incorrect pin height. You should have received a detailed instruction sheet with your new damper kit. If not, you can refer to the download section of the GPR website. There should be no extreme noises or binding coming from the bike while turning the bars left to right. It should all turn freely with no interruptions.


Do I have to weld anything onto my bike?

NO!!! All our kits are simple bolt-on applications. The small 1% of bikes that require a weld-on are the '95 and older models (if available) and the 85's & 100cc minis with an aftermarket triple clamp. That's the beauty of manufacturing everything in house.


Why can't I run a Fat Bar kit, V.2/V.3 kit on my cast top triple clamp? Why do some bikes require aftermarket top triple clamps?

It's all in what kind of bike you own that will determine the cost and components necessary to mount up different configurations of dampers, bars, and clamps. Standard bar kits (7/8) are offered for most dirt bikes w/little to no modifications. If you decide that you would like to run fat bars (1 1/8) with our damper kit, you may need to purchase new bar mounts to accommodate the new bar. In some cases, on older bikes, the lower bar mount is cast together with the triple clamp. In this situation, you would need to purchase an upper triple clamp. Almost all new bikes come stock with removable bar mounts, which makes upgrading to different kits even easier.


My pin height is too tall, or to low, can you send me the right one?

NO! The collar on the pin is an aluminum press fit design. It is made to move up or down on the steel pin. If adjustments need to be made, please refer to your installation booklet.


I just purchased a bike and it came with the GPR/mounting hardware. Can I buy just the damper or parts needed?

Of course. We sell all parts individually as needed, or offer complete mounting kits. We also sell just the stabilizer by itself, if that is all you require. Feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call if you need to place an order.


How much of a rise will I get with a V.2 kit? What about the V.3 or V.4??

It all depends on what bike you have and what you are already running for clamps and bars. Since there are many combinations available, there are some things we'll handle on a case-by-case basis. Our kits go anywhere from stock bar height, all the way up to 1 inch in height.


I've heard your damper has no high speed dampening. What's the difference between high/low dampening?

This is a great question. If you know what high and low speed dampening is, you would laugh at our competition and their claims. To start, you can't have one without the other (high/low speed dampening). Low speed comes with high speed and visa-versa. Any damper, including ours, would be useless w/o high speed valving or dampening. We get our valving through a single port made of only hard, anodized aluminum (nothing to contaminate or break down the oil) that on impact will restrict the flow of oil (Fluid, volume transfer). The harder the impact, the more high speed dampening it has. No unnecessary dials or parts to fail. We do have high speed dampening and a high-speed circuit. What we don't have is a 2nd external adjuster dial for that circuit, as both high and low speed dampening are controlled with the single, large, dial instead of a separate, blind adjustment dial. It is a true on the fly adjustment that has a numerical reference, so you know where it is set at all times, no guess work here.


How many different dampening settings do you have?

The numbers are strictly for reference, so you can visually/physically know what adjustment you are at. No guessing or fumbling required. Every degree you turn the knob is a different setting, allowing you to fine tune the damper unit to your needs. The knob assembly rotates 360 degrees left or right allowing you to go straight from the softest setting to the hardest setting, if need be. It will not unload, unscrew, or pop out, disabling your damper unit. The lower the number, the softer the setting. The higher the number the harder the setting. Very simple and very effective.


I've noticed that when I rotate my bars, left to right, the damper breaks free at the end of the stroke. Is my damper broke?

This is normal. Roughly 15 degrees off of 0, or center, an internal mechanism called a sweep brake goes into effect. The nice thing about this is once you hit that 15 degrees going back the opposite way, you have dampening all the way back to center. We believe that there are rocks on both sides of the trail, not just one. Why have a damper that only works half the time? When returning to center, you might think that you would be fighting to go straight. This is the furthest from the truth. A properly installed/set up kit will function just like your stock bike (with out the damper), but have the added benefits of a stabilizer.

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